Walker Pass / Hiking Scodie Peak
Lake Isabella to Walker Pass | Camping at Walker Pass Campground | Hiking Scodie Peak via the PCT | December 2025
This morning, we left our dispersed spot in Keyesville Recreation Area and stopped in Lake Isabella to grab a couple supplies, then took CA-178 East around the lake and through the mountains. Out of all the mountain highways we had been driving lately, this one was my favorite because it was less winding and ups and downs, and more just wide views of the surrounding peaks and desert landscape — which included some Joshua trees!
Today, we were focusing on one hike that Curtis had set his sights on, which led us to Walker Pass right on the Pacific Crest Trail. This spot in particular would allow for him to hike for the rest of the day, and for us to camp right there that night. There were only 3 campsites that would work for vans, and all three were taken when we arrived, so we parked at the trailhead and I eventually moved the van to one of the campsites once the others had left. As soon as we arrived, Curtis got all packed up with plenty of food and water, and set off on the trail — it was the first time either of us had ever hiked any stretch of the PCT! While he was gone, I mostly read, wrote, and solved sudoku puzzles from a book I had found in a little free library. There wasn’t any reception here, which made for a very quiet and relaxing day for me. Not so much for Curtis.
Curtis: My goal for today was to reach Scodie Peak, a prominent peak South of Walker Pass that also happens to be on several Sierras Club hiking lists. Since it was on so many lists, I figured the route should be pretty well established, especially since the PCT runs right by it.
After collecting everything I needed for a longer hike, I started south on the trail. What I’ve heard of the PCT is that, unlike the Appalachian Trail, and eastern trails in general, the PCT is designed with a very gentle grade when going up and down. I think I’ve heard that it was made this way to accommodate mules as well as humans. Regardless, I can attest that my hiking of the PCT was very pleasant and easy with views of the surrounding desert and the nearby Greenhorn Mountains.
Unfortunately, my research of the route to the actual summit was lacking. I honestly can’t remember how far I thought this trail was going to be, but it ended up being substantially longer. At just around 4 miles I reached the closest point that the trail reached to the peak. And so I left this wonderful low grade for bushwhacking through the manzanita and pinon up much steeper slopes. To make matters worse, I was mistaken in my belief that there would be any sort of use trail. I picked my way along the path of least resistance through the trees, doing my best to avoid any unnecessary elevation gain. I checked my mapping apps frequently to see how close I was getting, but I had a hard time figuring out which rocky outcrop was the true high point. This added to a psychological fatigue as I always thought the next push would bring me to the summit, only to find out there was further to go.
After two miles of this type of hiking, and six miles total, I finally got to the base of the rock pile that made up the summit…only to find myself on the wrong and steeper side. Nothing like making a hard hike harder. But the summit views were excellent. Here I was at almost the very Southern end of the Sierra Nevada. Views to the East and South showed the many peaks of the Mojave desert. West showed the Greenhorns. I picked out a snowcapped Telescope Peak which (unbelievably) I had climbed just under a year ago. These moments sitting on the peak make up for the ‘What am I doing’ moments on the slopes.
But now I was faced with a problem. It was mid-afternoon and if I returned back to the PCT, I would have 6 miles of walking. It also happened to be the Winter Solstice and so the shortest day of the year. I had no means of telling Jess that I was going to be walking back after dark since, even on the summit, I had barely any reception. And, when I had left, I had flippantly told Jess, ‘call SAR if I’m not back by 530’. I didn’t want my wife to worry…if she worries, she won’t let me do these hikes anymore.
And so, I made a decision. I could cut off 3+ miles if I bushwacked straight down a gulch towards where I had started. We’ll say that I made this decision based on my experience hiking the desert, trust in my ability to hike, and some risk mitigations. But honestly, I was not confident in the decision. I knew if I started down and reached some type of cliff that I couldn’t navigate, it would be a lot of work to climb back up.
But obviously I’m writing this and have survived. It was steep going, and I had to trust my GPS and maps since I couldn’t see the surrounding topography. I even slipped on an icy rock at one point and gashed my hand pretty badly (enough to draw blood). But the gulch gave way to the flatter washes of the desert, and soon I was back to Jess well before sunset. She was never worried. You can see most of my route here.
Jess: That evening, I went wandering on the PCT a little myself, just to say I did, and we enjoyed the sunset and the desert life surrounding us in the now-empty camping area. We hoped this meant we’d be alone here all night, and while we did end up being the only ones to spend the night, it doesn’t mean we were alone. First, there was the highway which was used throughout the night, and with the way the road wound around the camping area, the sound from vehicles continued for a long time. Then there were some others who came to drive through the camping area blasting music. Because of all that, I wasn’t tempted to stay any longer, though I’m sure Curtis wouldn’t have minded getting another chance to hike some more. Oh well, we’ll have to save the other direction of the PCT for the day when we’re actually hiking it.
