Lowell National Historic Site
Visiting Lowell National Historic Site | Lowell, MA | Manchester, NH | April 2023
Our one full day in Manchester, NH also happened to be Easter Sunday, and Curtis’ 30th birthday! This wasn’t the way we had imagined we’d be celebrating, but we were still going to make the most of the day. We planned a little day trip 30 minutes South into Massachusetts to visit a National Park Site and a MA county that we hadn’t been to before. We were a little nervous about taking Charlotte to a city since all of our hikes so far had been in nature and on empty trails, but we knew this was something we’d have to work on, and we were prepared to do whatever we could to make it a positive experience for her.
After grabbing extra helpings of the hotel breakfast we drove due South into Massachusetts and into the city center of Lowell. While the drive was primarily on state highways, we were reminded from our time in Connecticut of why we never really wanted to live in this part of the country. The city never really stopped. Sure the houses became bigger and more spaced out, and maybe there was the occasional farm, but we were really just driving straight from one suburban sprawl into the next. Suburban sprawl is really high on Curtis’ pet peeves and social issues, and while we don’t know where we want to live – we at least know where we don’t want to live. And fortunately, we don’t have to make that type of decision for a while.
The road we took followed the Merrimack River, which turned out to be the focus of Lowell National Historic Site as it is located on a series of drops along the river and the industrial boom town that grew up around them. We found parking near the Boott Cotton Mill and one of the park’s visitors centers. We were a bit early for the visitor center (and we questioned if it would be open at all on Easter Sunday) and decided to start on one of the walking tours following the river downstream, through and around the Boott Cotton Mill.
The National Park Service, as well as the city in general, has done a great job at preserving the town’s illustrious past as America’s textile center and the explosion of technology and industry that occurred here in the 19th century. Textiles are so ingrained into Lowell’s history, that the original charter for Lowell in the 1820’s was in order to build a model village for the manufacturing of textiles using the latest and greatest in mechanical technology. By diverting the Merrimack’s water from the rapids, manufacturers used the water’s force to turn large water turbines, which then turned drive shafts, which turned the many spindles of the mill’s looms, weaves, mules, and jennys. It is said that during the 1860’s, Lowell Mills produced more cotton fabric than all 11 states of the Confederacy combined.
Many technological improvements and advancements in water-turbine technology, as well as textile technology were advanced in Lowell. And the social and economic structures between laborers, foreman, owners, and consumers were mimicked across the country and globe, well into the 20th century. Lowell Mills utilized the ‘company store’ and ‘company boarding house’ to entice would be employees to come work at the factory. They utilized timely and regimented daily routines for the workers and promised regular bi-weekly payment. The original factories were such a success that more and more sprang up and by 1840s there were over 30 different factories operating their mills, and by the 1850’s over 40.
But with the 20th century and increases in transportation costs, the market shifted closer to the where the cotton grew and the town went into economic decline until all but one of the original mills shut down. Fortunately, the town has seen some resurgence, aided in part by the NPS stepping in to help preserve some of the original structures, mills, and canals that made up this once thrumming city.
As usual, our tour of the site was focused outside, and we followed the Merrimack downstream past the front of the Bootts Mill, which we think is now a sprawling apartment complex in addition to one of the parks museums. We then followed the Concord (a small tributary) up towards the town center. Staying off the roads and more on the boardwalk seemed to suit Charlotte well and we took our time with it, eventually circling back to where we started. We walked slow for Char and encouraged her progress and rewarded her following our instructions with treats. There came a point where we could tell she was starting to feel anxious and overwhelmed, so we led her to a nearby greenspace and let her sit down, drink water, and relax. Curtis went on ahead to go to the visitor center and then planned on bringing the car over to where we were, but by the time he made it to the parking garage Charlotte was re-energized and ready to finish her walk. We were so proud of her and of ourselves for a successful walk downtown!
There was a lot more that we could have walked around town to see (they built over 6 miles of canals), but it was getting warm out and the Easter services were letting out making it busier, so we packed ourselves up and drove back to Manchester, tagging our missing county along the way. The rest of the day was spent relaxing and lounging in the hotel or at the park. Curtis metal detected around the parks and had some good birthday luck with his finds.
